Balkans Above the Clouds

Our morning starts with a 45-minute transfer through the stunning Vanave Gorge, ascending a winding road into the Gora Highlands—a land rich in history and culture. This distinctive border region, where Albania, Kosovo, and North Macedonia converge, was once inhabited by the nomadic, Slavic-speaking Gorani people.

The day’s trek begins near the charming Gorani village of Shishtavec. From there, we steadily climb to the rugged peak of Mt. Kallabak (2,174 m), the first summit in the Sharr Mountain range and a unique spot where three countries meet.

We continue along a breathtaking ridge that twists between Albanian and Kosovar territory, surrounded by vast alpine meadows and panoramic vistas. Far off, the towering Mt. Korab (2,764 m)—the highest summit in the area—comes into view, fueling anticipation for the journey ahead.

Our path then winds downward into a striking alpine valley, leading us to Cajë, a secluded mountain village reputed to be Albania’s highest permanent settlement.

We conclude the day embracing local tradition by visiting the village “club,” the social heart of Albanian rural life, where we connect with elders over lively conversation and savor a warming glass of homemade raki—an ideal close to our first full day on the High Scardus Trail.

After saying goodbye to our kind-hearted hosts, we go on one of the longest and most scenic treks of the journey, making our way toward the mountain village of Radomirë. The route takes us through lush alpine pastures that look straight out of a storybook, blanketed with wildflowers in vivid hues. If we’re lucky, we might catch sight of the elusive Albanian lily or see semi-wild horses roaming freely across the open slopes.

As we follow a gentle ridge trail with rolling ups and downs, the sharp silhouette of Mt. Korab grows ever more imposing, drawing us deeper into Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, one of the most unspoiled and biodiverse areas in the region and part of the larger Balkan Green Belt.

Eventually, we descend into the Field of Korabi, a wide, bowl-shaped valley with a surreal feel—scattered with abandoned concrete bunkers, relics of Albania’s isolationist past, now weathered and half-swallowed by the earth like ghosts of another era.

By late day, we reach Radomirë, a vibrant alpine village and a popular launch point for Mt. Korab ascents. Here, we settle into a welcoming, no-frills family-run pension, where home-cooked meals, fleece-lined beds, and genuine local hospitality offer the perfect wind-down after a big day on the trail.

Today brings the crowning moment of our trek—the ascent of Mt. Korab (2,764 m), the highest summit in both Albania and North Macedonia.

We set off early for this demanding but non-technical climb, which challenges our endurance with a significant uphill push. The trail leads us through a mosaic of landscapes—from rustic shepherd shelters and exposed rocky ridges to lush meadows alive with alpine blooms.

Reaching the border saddle, we loop around to approach the summit from its secluded, lesser-traveled side. The effort pays off with breathtaking views and a rare sense of solitude. At the top, we’re rewarded with panoramas stretching across two nations—a stunning reminder of the wild beauty we’ve walked through.

After a picnic above the clouds, we begin our descent via an alternate route, taking in new perspectives of the massif before returning to Radomirë.

Those craving rest can opt for a shorter route or spend a peaceful day in the village, soaking in the slow rhythm of mountain life.

In the evening, we’re invited into the “oda”, the traditional guestroom reserved for special visitors. Here, seated in a circle as tradition dictates, we enjoy an evening of shared stories, laughter, and reflection, honoring the journey we’ve taken together around Korab’s towering heights.

Tomorrow, the adventure deepens as we head into even wilder, more secluded landscapes.

We say goodbye to the relative comforts of Radomirë and set off into the untamed highlands, tracing a forgotten border patrol trail that once marked the edge of Albania’s most secretive frontier.

As we ascend, we walk alongside the eerie traces of the “brezi i butë”—a thin line of sand laid down to catch the footprints of escapees. Now peaceful and remote, this route once inspired fear, with harsh consequences for anyone caught crossing during Albania’s communist regime.

Eventually, we crest the highest point of the day, greeted by a vast glacial valley below where flocks of sheep drift like clouds across open pasture. A short break by a crystal-clear mountain lake invites us to dip our feet in its icy waters—a refreshing pause before the final push.

By evening, we arrive at Ladies Pasture (1,770 m), home to the Kaloshi shepherd family. Our accommodation is rustic without electricity, phone signal, or showers—but rich in authentic hospitality.

Leaving the solitude of the high mountains behind, we begin our descent from a world shaped by weather, livestock, and tradition. Our time with the shepherds offered a rare glimpse into a way of life both harsh and humbling—one that lingers long after we part ways.

The trail picks up an old pack-animal route, gradually leading us up to Grama Pass (2,300 m). The climb is steady, and the views from the top are wide open in every direction. Before we move on, we pause for a final, stirring view of Korab’s jagged profile and the hidden basin of Grama Lake—landmarks that now feel part of our story.

Soon, we begin a steep and stony descent, tracing a long-disused patrol path etched into the mountain during Albania’s closed-border era. From below, the slope looks nearly vertical—a striking reminder of how far we’ve come.

As the path levels out, the stark terrain gives way to softer contours. Alpine meadows gradually become high fields above Rabdisht, where patches of cultivated land and village rooftops begin to appear like a quilt over the valley floor. The scent of woodsmoke and distant voices mark our slow return to everyday life.

Eventually, we reach Rabdisht, descending into its narrow stone alleys and quiet charm. Our hosts welcome us into a peaceful garden with a glass of something homemade—raki or juice—a simple but heartfelt way to end a rugged, unforgettable day among the peaks.

If your flight allows, take the morning at your own pace—perhaps wander to a leafy square for one last Albanian coffee, or watch Tirana wake up from the patio of a street-side café. The city, now familiar, hums with energy beneath the skyline of colorful buildings and distant peaks.

Those with a few extra hours might explore one of the capital’s lesser-known corners: browse fresh produce and hand-crafted goods at the buzzing market near Pazari i Ri, or lose yourself in the haunting stories of Albania’s past at the House of Leaves or BunkArt 2—each only a short walk from the heart of town.

At 10:00 AM, the group transfer heads for the airport. Leaving later? No rush—a local taxi can take you there whenever you’re ready, usually for about €20.

As you make your way home, we hope your time on the High Scardus Trail stays with you—not just in photos or sore calves, but in the quiet moments: a shared smile, the rustle of wind through alpine grass, or the taste of mountain cheese by a shepherd’s fire.

We’re happy to help plan additional adventures, whether you're dreaming of more time in the mountains, exploring Albania’s cultural gems, or unwinding by the coast. There’s so much more to discover.