The Zagoria Valley Trek

⟺ 11 km ▲ 700 m ▼ 425 m ⧗ 5:00 h

Your 5-day trek begins at the edge of Zagoria River Valley, Europe’s first Wild River National Park, where four mountain ranges meet in an untouched corner of Albania. You enter via a forgotten caravan route lined with Ottoman bridges and Orthodox churches, then hike through open woodlands to a panoramic mountain pass.

You descend past ancient terraced fields to the nearly deserted hamlet of Kala, where you cool off with a dip beneath a majestic stone bridge. Continuing along the old caravan road, you climb to Limar famous for its stone houses and Mt. Strakavec views, before settling in with your hosts, Noli and Margerita, for a warm homemade dinner and captivating stories of life under communism.

Meals: B / LP / D
Accommodation: Guesthouse (private)
Location: Limar

⟺ 14.5 km ▲ 725 m ▼ 575 m ⧗ 6:00 h

Today, you follow scenic footpaths with towering peaks above and the Zagoria River far below, linking the remote villages of Leskaj, Doshnica, and Hoshtevë as you meet locals tending livestock, hives, and medicinal herbs.

In Doshnica, you share a coffee break with villagers, then head to the natural basin at Doshnica Waterfall to soak your feet in crystal-clear waters, after which, depending on river levels, you either continue along the stream or loop back through the village before ascending to Hoshtevë. There, you visit the Church of the Holy Apostles renowned for its Byzantine frescoes and carved wooden icons, and end the day with a hearty home-cooked dinner hosted by Katrina and Ladi. Enjoy!

Meals: B / LP / D
Accommodation: Guesthouse (private)
Location: Hoshteve

⟺ 10 km ▲ 625 m ▼ 1250 m ⧗ 6:00 h

Today you tackle the longest, most challenging stage: crossing the rugged Dhembel-Nemërçkë Range on a historic shepherds’ route, with your luggage carried by horse.

You begin at Enver Hoxha’s wartime bunkers, enter a narrow mountain crack, and climb into a stark alpine valley of spring wildflowers before reaching Dhembel Pass (1,450 m) for fascinating views into Greece and down the Vjosa Valley.

After a careful descent into old-town Përmet, you check in at your centrally located hotel and unwind with the region’s renowned cuisine, local wines, and homemade raki.

Meals: B / LP / –
Accommodation: Hotel (private)
Location: Përmet

⟺ 6 km ▲ 300 m ▼ 300 m ⧗ 3:00 h

You begin the day with a scenic drive along the turquoise Vjosa River into unspoiled countryside, then hike through scrubland past abandoned villages with Mt. Nemërçkë’s north face rising 650 m above the valley.

After summiting, you descend to Ogdunan, where a local family welcomes you before continuing into Langarica Canyon to an ancient Ottoman bridge above natural thermal springs perfect for soaking in sulfur-rich pools and unwinding after five days on the trail.

Refreshed, you drive 1.5 hours along the river to Gjirokastër, check in to your Ottoman-era mansion in the Old Town, and spend the evening exploring its cobbled streets and tasting local specialties.

Meals: B / – / –
Accommodation: Hotel (private)
Transfers: 3 hours (split up)
Location: Gjirokastër

If there is enough free time, you can explore Tirana’s lively streets, strolling through the New Bazaar, sampling local delicacies at a café, or diving into Albania’s communist history at Bunk’Art 2 or the House of Leaves just off Skanderbeg Square.

Then, a 30-minute transfer takes you to the airport.

Meals: B / – / –
Accommodation: None
Transfers: 30 minutes
Location: TIA (Tirana International Airport)